Drawn to Mexico by her powerful curiosity about this ancient land, Isabella Tree embarks on a journey to get to the heart of its complex and colourful culture. She takes part in shamanic rituals with the Maya; revels through the night with transvestites in Juchitan; awaits spirits in an ancient graveyard on Lake Patzcuaro; joins an Indian pilgrimage in the Sierra Madre; and spends a bloodthirsty Easter among self-flagellating penitents. In showing the stark realities and ancient mysticism, the tenderness and violence to be found in modern Mexico, Isabella Tree has written the perfect evocation of this country of extremes.

Originally published: London: Hamish Hamilton, 2001.