Art as a giveaway -- The great accursed and the great sage -- Crane-racing -- The Beluga Cafe -- Falling in the well -- The animals are listening -- Circular ruins -- The woman who wore a whale skull as a hat -- What the raven said -- Not talking to beluga -- The art of seeing -- Avoiding curupira -- My whale-watching guide -- Temporary insanity -- Wilma the beluga whale -- Other people's territory -- The while heart -- Afterword.