This issue of Granta includes Tim Parks on the joys of commuting from Verona to Milan every day; Christopher de Bellaigue on tracking down the Armenians in Turkey; Jeremy Treglown following in the footsteps of V S Pritchett in Spain; Jeremy Seabrook on being separated from his twin; and Todd McEwen on Cary Grant's trousers. Plus there is new fiction by Ann Beattie, Tessa Hadley and Claire Keegan.

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